Chef’s Special: Watermark Brasserie, Glendorgal Hotel, Newquay.

Three Game Roll with Leek Mash, Braised Red Cabbage and a Rich Game Jus

Recipe by: Darren Lewis, Head Chef, Watermark Brasserie, Glendorgal Hotel, Newquay.

Darren Lewis

Three Game Roll with Leek Mash, Braised Red Cabbage and a Rich Game Jus

Originally from Cardiff where he trained as a chef, Darren worked in France for five years and later under Nick Hodges, of the Flying Fish restaurant, while he ran the restaurant at Lusty Glaze. He has since been Head chef at the Glendorgal for 2 ½ years. Darren’s philosophy is to cook good quality food, which has been done right and is properly homemade. “I like to cook traditional type of dishes but with a bit of a difference.” He adds, “95% of what we make is cooked and prepared by ourselves.”

The Game Roll is typical in that sense. “Many people are interested in this dish because they have never eaten pigeon before and yet it feels like a very traditional kind of meat. The flavours particularly work together as well. The duck is rich, but not gamey, and forms the largest part of the roll. The pheasant is gamey but not too strong, however the small piece of pigeon is really quite pungent in comparison. It may not be popular on its own, but here the flavours pull each other back and forth.”

Darren is very committed to what he does and would like his fine dining restaurant, open also to non-residents, to grow especially in the winter months. The menus change four times a year to reflect the changing seasons and local produce that is available. “They only dish we keep throughout the year,” he says, “is Glendorgal’s own unique version of ‘Fish and Chips’. We use the catch of the day- a white fish in beer batter – with tempura prawns and locally caught scallops, and serve with home cooked chunky chips, a pea purée, a seafood sauce and a sweet chilli sauce. As you can imagine, it is very popular.”

Game Roll (serves 4)
2 Duck Breast
2 Pigeon Breast
2 Pheasant Breast

  • Butterfly Duck Breast & lay fat side down
  • Butterfly Pheasant Breast & lay on top of Duck
  • Butterfly and Cut lengthways down the Pigeon Breast and place down the centre of the Pheasant Breast
  • Roll all the 3 meats together and tie along to form a small roasting joint. Cut each roll in ½ to give 4 portions
  • In a dry hot pan, seal the meats Duck fat side down first to dissolve the fat then seal other sides and put on an oven tray. Place in a preheated oven 220 degrees Celsius for approx 8-10 minutes

Braised Red Cabbage
1 Thinly Sliced Red Cabbage
1 Tsp Juniper Berries
2 Fresh Bay Leaves
1 Cinnamon Stick
175g Golden Raisins
¾ Bottle Merlot
½ Pint Orange Juice

  • Bruise Juniper Berries to release Oils
  • Put all ingredients in a large pan and cover, bring to the boil and simmer for approx 30-40 mins
  • Take off the lid and allow to reduce for another 20 mins or until cabbage is soft

Leek Mash
4 x Good size potatoes
1 Leek (white)
2 Cloves of chopped Garlic
100g Butter
2 Tsp Olive Oil
Sprig of Thyme

  • Cook the potatoes and Mash
  • Lightly sauté garlic and Thyme in butter and oil and then strain.
  • Keep Oil and Butter mix for use in mash and discard the Garlic and Thyme
  • Lightly sauté the Leeks in the butter and oil mix and add to the mash, season to taste
  • A small amount of cream can be added if desired (optional)

Game Jus
1 Pint Fonds de Gibier (game stock)
1 Tsp Redcurrant Jelly
1 Bay leaf
Sprig of Rosemary
½ Orange
Double Shot of Port

  • Using the pan you used to seal the meats in
  • Deglaze with Port, add a pint of Fonds de Gibier which can be made using the bones from the birds if you so wish.
  • Squeeze in the orange and add all ingredients.
  • Bring to the boil and reduce by a 1/3, season if required
  • Strain & Serve

Glendorgal Hotel, Lusty Glaze Road, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 3AD
Tel: 01637 874937

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s